Hi there. I'm looking for a 4x5 field camera - ideally a metal camera with 2 to 3 lenses and everything in good working order.

Thanks
Dianne

That might sound like a stupid question because the EOS system has an extremely short flange, electric transmission for everything etc.

Did someone ever try to make an adapter for EF lenses on other systems, for example - let me dream for a moment - Leica Visoflex? :blink:

Hoi allemaal,

Ik wilde jullie er nog even op wijzen dat het Haags Historisch Museum (aan de overkant van de weg zo'n beetje pal naast het Maurits Huis), een hele mooie tentoonstelling heeft met kleuren 3D foto's van Wim Berssenbrugge, getiteld "Oorlog en Bevrijding in 3D".

Ik had nog nooit van Wim Berssenbrugge gehoord, maar het schijnt dat hij een niet te verwaarlozen verzameling van hele mooie 3D kleurenfoto's op, als ik het mij goed herinner, Agfa diafilm heeft gemaakt tijdens en vlak na de 2e wereldoorlog. Met name in Den Haag, en gebruikmakend van een door hemzelf ontworpen unieke "tandem-Leica" waarop hij nog patent heeft aangevraagd en geloof ik nog een prijs van Leica heeft gekregen.

Ik was erg onder de indruk van de platen, vooral omdat ze een aantal hele mooie (wel digitale) viewers hebben gebouwd, waarmee je met een polaroid brilletje een erg goed 3D effect krijgt. Tevens is er zelfs een (ook weer digitale maar wel goede) zaalprojectie op groot formaat.

Ik denk dat in ieder geval een deel van de foto's wel digitaal gerestaureerd zijn, want dat Agfa materiaal was geen Kodachrome met zijn lange houdbaarheid en de opslag van het materiaal tot aan de vondst was ook niet ideaal, maar dat is wel met zeer veel respect voor de originele opnamen gedaan, en de kleuren en kwaliteit van de beelden is dan ook prachtig, en voor mijn gevoel natuurgetrouw.

Bedenk verder natuurlijk dat het onverantwoord zou zijn geweest dergelijk kwetsbaar archiefmateriaal zelf tentoon te stellen, dus zet je over de "digitale projectie" maar even heen.

Ga zeker kijken als je nog wat tijd hebt, het kan nog t/m 26 september!

Als bonus kun je ook nog een van de laatste bestaande authentieke V2 raketten zien. Gek genoeg was Den Haag een van de belangrijkste lanceerlocaties daarvoor..., en een verzameling van mooie apparatuur van o.a. Wim zelf.

Ok something I and other pro lab owners have put up with for years has been end roll paper wastage. I'm not talking a meter of two I'm talking about 10-20 percent of a roll. I use Kodak and Fuji Matte, Gloss and Luster in roll sizes up to 50inch these are not cheap rolls of paper and so I expect to be able to use the entire roll (will exception of the last meter).

The reason the rolls are ruined for the last 10 percent is Surface defects due to how the paper rolls are wound onto the cardboard central core. The rolls for the last 10-20 percent get a linear surface change that can be seen very easily when gallery lighting is at an angle to the image.

When printing Mural prints from galleries and museums such defects simply arn't acceptable. Why doesnt kodak or fuji fix this problem? Ilford rolls don't have this problem with their paper rolls.

Both Fuji and Kodak are making nice papers but this just annoys me to no end.

This is a Chinon CM-7 in good working condition. This is a fully manual K lens mount SLR with LED metering. Sold with a lens cap which also has a pin hole on it to use as a pin hole lens (not recommended since there are so many fantastic K mount lenses out there). Batteries not included.

Price: $20 plus shipping. I ship to most countries. Attached Images

• chinon 1.jpg (143.8 KB)
• chinon 2.jpg (139.0 KB)
• chinon 3.jpg (109.2 KB)

This is a Promaster 19-35mm F3.5-4.5 manual focus zoom lens for Minolta MD (or MC) film SLR's. The condition is minty. I bought this lens less than a year ago and used it only handful of times. This lens takes superb pictures and is a joy to use!

Sold with original front cap, Minolta rear cap, hood, box, packing, and paperwork.

Price: $70 plus insured shipping. I ship to most countries! Attached Images

• pro 2.jpg (130.6 KB)
• pro 1.jpg (120.4 KB)
• pro 3.jpg (132.2 KB)

My film is drying in a way that leaves almost a border in an "L" shape along one long and one short side. It is an "L" shaped area of less density on the negative that only shows up on occasion. It is located always on the notch code edge and side closest to the notch code. I hang my film from the notch code corner. I use a jobo 3010 expert drum to process my film with the notch code oriented at the upper left. HC110, 8 minutes, speed setting is 4. I put my film in the holder with the notch code in the lower left, thus rise and bellows sag are ruled out I feel. Could film drying unevenly leave an area I have described? Thank you all in advance for any answers.

I would like to borrow a high-quality, known-to-be accurate incident light meter. I will use it to calibrate the ancient General Electric exposure meter that I am restoring to usefulness by using electronic guts. I will only need it for a couple days, then I can send it back. I live in Dallas, and I will pay shipping.

Hello all,
I recently picked up two of these lenses and prefer the black one so I'm letting the silver one go.

It's in good shape (I'd rate it about an 8/10). There are a few marks in the barrel finish but the glass is spotless. The apertures are snappy and clean and the focus is nice and smooth (not loose or tight). The lens cap shows the most significant amount of wear (I'd rate it a 6/10).

I'm including the lens, hood, front cap, rear cap (generic, I think) and a Voigtlander LTM -> M adapter.

Asking price is $250 including PayPal and shipping to CONUS. I ordered the adapter and it should be here sometime this week so if you want I can ship it all together or I can ship the lens upon sale and the adapter upon receipt of it.

I have excellent feedback on FredMiranda under username matthewm and on eBay under username shutterbuttonfrenzy. I also have several very successful transactions here and on RFF under username matthewm.

Please feel free to pm, email, call or text me with questions or offers. I'm open to trades for Voigtlander lenses (21 or 35 specifically) to accompany my Bessa R2a.

Thanks so much,
Matthew Morse
matthewjmorse@gmail.com
843-345-0186

Hi everyone, I have a question.

Either my Pentax ME Super, has a problem or I don't know how to use it.


The exposure mode dial won't budge.

Hi, all -

A few years ago, I took some direction from Sandeha Lynch and built myself a 4x5 hyperfocal point-and-shoot camera. Based on his design (and his name for it), the Neretta is/was a fun project. But, it got set aside, and stripped for parts, lens was sold, yada yada. So the body sat in a drawer for a couple years.

Well, I recently got a bug in my ear telling me to bring it back. Bought a new lens - an Optar 90/6.8. Bought a new bracket handle. Refinished the mahogany. Ended up with this:


So, the sun came out today, and I took Maddie and the Neretta (and the dog) out to the Daniel Boone Homestead. Fired off a few sheets of Arista.EDU Ultra 100 (I told you it was sunny!), and just got 'em scanned.







And, just to convince m'self that the Optar's sharp enough, here's a 100% crop of Maddie:



I have two, count 'em - two - Grafmatics on their way here. And a friend's hooking me up with a hood (of which I'm clearly in dire need). This rig is the bee's knees. Can't wait to take it out again!

Scott

Minolta Maxxum 4, 35-70 Minolta AF beercan, Tamron 70-300 macro. No editing.

These are overexposed but I still like them, it almost turned night into day, you wouldn't know it but these were shot around 12:45am





Lens flare in the top left, street lights. No hood for my 35-70 :(


Could be sharper but it's okay, still practicing my night shots.



Rig is a Minolta Maxxum 4, 70-300 Tamron and 35-70 Minolta AF kit, film was Kodak Portra 400vc, I think. Or Fujifilm Pro 400. Either way, imho, not bad, but I have some room for improvement.

Is there a problem with developing different brands of film in the same tank when their processing times are the same?
EX. a roll of Tri-x 400 and neopan 400 in the same hand tank. Both have processing time of 8 min in HC110 1+50.

Is there a problem with developing different brands of film in the same tank when their processing times are the same?
EX. a roll of Tri-x 400 and neopan 400 in the same hand tank. Both have processing time of 8 min in HC110 1+50.

My Rollei E 36 RE flash guns are starting to fail me. Instead of scavenging ebay for more of the same, I was thinking of finding a different model flash. I plan on using it with my Sputnik 3D camera. So, I need a LOT of power (guide number) and don't really care about recharge time...if I take a shot a minute, it is a lot. Also, I want something really cheap. ;-)

Suggestions?

I went to my cousin's 1 year old son's birthday party this past Sunday using a Canon AE-1P and a Bronica ETRS. Most of my family knows I still shoot film but I still get the occasional "You still use film!", especially when using the Canon. What's funny though is this was the first time I brought the Bronica to a family gathering since I bought it about a month ago. I had on the speedgrip and a Canon 540EZ attached to it and once they saw it, I hear someone say "Now that's a REAL camera right there!".

Body exterior has a lot of wear but mechanics are in great shape. Speeds are accurate, door has been refoamed and the film wind is smooth. The prism has a very faint light horizontally across the center of the frame, not terribly noticeable when you're actually shooting. $50 plus shipping. Will not ship overseas.

Friends, I finally got back to developing my own film, after years of XP2 and pro lab (no complaints, it's just that I wanted to get everything back into my own bathroom).

I started all over again: new film (FP4), new developer (Ilfosol 3), something to start with on the forgiving side, I hope. Ilford Rapid Fixer, Ilfostop and Ilfotol for the rest, known stuff, just new bottles.

Shakiest part was the usual one: sitting in the pitch dark of my bomb shelter (yes, swiss homes do have one, great thing to store wine and build darkrooms), right on the cold floor, and could not get that darn film into the Jobo spiral! Tried two times, hoping I would not leave too many fingerprints on the film, than I succeeded. And then with all those monsters I had not seen since childhood, 40 years ago, watching me in the dark...

The rest was quite easy, I just have to get back to a standard workflow, too much panicking with wrong liquids in the wrong bottles, but I sorted things out all right, I hope.

The film itself is hanging in my wet shower cabin now, drying until tomorrow. On first sight it looks good, no fog, clear and contrasty. Hopefully not too contrasty. Camera was my old Rolleiflex 3.5 F, one of two films I shot in the italian speaking part of Switzerland, on the Lago Maggiore and the Verzasca valley. I am lucky enough to have a project and a customer down there, right now the days are still long enough so I took my tripod, the camera and went up to the beautyful places after work.

And it's mainly thanks to APUG and the wonderful analog people here that I found my way back to film. Thanks a lot, it is fun, much more fun than shooting away as I did before.

Holger

Hello. First off I tend to use three 120 films - well two mostly; Fuji across and Fomapan 100 both about equally and Tmax 400 once in a while. I tend to like the Fomapan 100 best and will probably use it exclusively when my other stock is used up, but I'm not sure of that yet. I've been a very happy camper with Rodinal, (1:75 or 1:100) and I guess I like (gasp!) grain. I find that when I get tight but plentiful grain that I like the appearance of texture, which works very well on the statues that we shoot.
My problem is this. In the summer my tap water is ~78- 80 degrees. I've tried using ice cubes but would really like to avoid that, mostly because I don't want to put aside wash water iced to drop temperature and I tend to do ~20 rolls at a time and using ice, getting it close is a pain. So - no ice.

That led me to diafine. I've run about ten rolls of all three films through the stuff so far and though I like it ok with the Fomapan, it is not what I'm looking for, if there was another developer which like Diafine has no problems with high temperatures affecting development. Is there something else? Especially something which would give high acutance?

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've searched and so far seem to be unable to find a Diafine substitute. Mind you ... I have not had much experience with Diafine and really appreciate its characteristics ... but would love to find an alternative if there is one.

Thanks! :)