hey

I'm looking for a 5x4 graflex speed graphic, with a graflok back. I'm not too bothered about a lens as i will be mounting my own lens to it. My main concern is whether the focal plane shutter is working. it would also be beneficial if it had a side mounted rangefinder.

i am based in the uk, however obviously due to the camera in question i would be happy to buy from the states.

thanks

Hi,

I have about 15 e6 films from a trip to norway and i'm looking for somewhere cheap. There are a few around £5 but i have no idea how reliable they are but that's the ideal price. I was thinking of getting a small chemical set but don't have the time to organise that all- i've just done a lot of c-41 and whilst it was fun its a relief to have finished it.

Sorry if this is the wrong forum, i couldn't find one for commercial processing, or know if you guys use that anyway.

hey guys,

having just picked up a Pentax 645 from a fellow member here on the forum, I'm in need of another insert or two for it. Preferably looking for a 220 insert(or 2), but I'd be happy as well with a 120 one as well, or one of each.

220 is preferred, but 120 is fine as well. Please PM me if you have something to sell/trade(please include things you're interested in trading for as well)

I'm a student on a pretty tight budget, so it doesn't have to look pretty, but just has to be perfectly functional(but pretty doesn't have to be completely omitted from the

my zip code is 91741(greater LA area) if you need to calculate shipping costs from wherever you are.

I can do paypal or PMO, whichever is easier for you.

thanks!

-Dan

Cambo SC lensboard for a Copal 1 shutter in good condition, with a few scuff marks.
$25 including SAL shipping(~10 days to the US). Add $10 for EMS (~2/3 days to the US).
Paypal only.

Thanks,
Kumar

I just bought an Olympus Pen FT. Printing black and white is no problem; I just use my normal 35mm negative carrier and crop with the easel...flare is probably increased. I'm still deciding whether it's better to put the frame in the middle of the negative carrier or off to the one side.

I'm not sure what to do about color. Are there any labs that can print color negative 1/2 frame negatives? I could probably get the film developed at any minilab but I only have a flatbed scanner which is marginal even for 35mm, and I don't do color darkroom printing yet.

1. Polaroid back for Mamiya RZ in excellent condition $75, including EMS shipping.
Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/10413151...I-luIDv9oSXtgE

2. Polaroid 405 back in very good condition, with minor paint loss $80, including EMS shipping.
Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/10413151...CPHVgtWM6dv2Vg

3. Fuji Instant Film Holder for Mamiya Press. This is not usually seen outside Japan. I think it can also be used with the RB67 with the appropriate adapter. In almost mint condition. $90, including EMS shipping.
Photos:
http://picasaweb.google.com/10413151...COXXta3c94TSZA

4. Fuji PA-45 with a broken corner. Should work if you seal it with gaffer's tape. Or if you need parts. Make an offer.
Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/10413151...CLvV6cWuhbLOMQ

Thanks for looking,
Kumar

I am looking for a 6x6 Alpa film roll back. Alpa has discontinued this item.

I enjoyed seeing this was done with film and I liked the images... I hope you will too.

http://lens.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/0...olice-station/

I own a Zone VI camera and I am pretty comfortable with that so far.

Prior to buying the Zone VI, I purchased a Cambo SC2 which I still have. I had an adapter board made for the Cambo SC2 so I can just pop in the lens boards from my Zone VI and share the lenses. Now I am starting to also get interested in exploring 8x10.

Instead of buying another Camera, I am wondering if its possible to just change the Rear Standard of the SC2 and bellows of the Cambo SC2, use the same front standard, and make an 8x10 out of the SC2?

Jason

Thinking about a used Nikon F5 or F6


OK… so at the risk of offending some forum members…. Be forewarned… I will be using what some may consider a “foul” word.

No… it’s not that four letter word, ;) it’s actually 7 letters long… begins with a D and end with an L.


I am considering getting either a used F5 or used F6.

Body condition, shutter curtain,shutter speed sound, mirror and mirror foam is pretty obvious to assess as to whether or not its been used but not abused. What does concern me is that since the F5~F6 is less “mechanical” and more of an “electronic” camera is there a way to assess that (i.e. “are the electronics in good working order or are they prone to imminent failure”).

Of even more importance is “shutter count”.

I know that Nikon claims the shutter is tested to 150,000+ clicks, …BUT…. Is there a way to actually assess the actual shutter count? I know that with a Digital camera (by the way, that was the “foul word” ;) ), one can read the Exif data to get a shutter count….

Any way of doing that on a F5~F6, getting the shutter count.

Thanks in advance

I picked up a Canonette 28 at the local good will store; light seals were removed, but before ordering a new seal kit from Jon Goodman, I wanted to get the "sticky shutter" repaired.

I removed the rear element and noticed that there was foam and foam residue back there. See the attached picture; you can see the lens there. Removing this lens, and "hitting" the shutter with some cleaner (end of bamboo stick) eventually got the shutter working on all manual apertures with a satisfying "clunk".

Now to get the light seals, and, then we have another working camera!

JohnS. Attached Images

• Canonette-28-rear-element-small.jpg (140.8 KB)

This is a complete brand new Horizon Panoramic 202 Kit:
Horizon 35mm Camera, Model 202
Case
grip
filter set
strap
instruction book
Styrofoam box

I would like to trade for Leica (or Leica LTM compatible) screw-mount lenses.
Cash can be added to even out the deal. What have you got? Attached Images

• IMG_2245.JPG (811.3 KB)

Does any one where to get a cord to trigger the camera via pocketwizard?

I did my first double-coated pt/pd print today. I had an image that really begs for the cool platinum image tone much more than the warm palladium, so I first tried a pure platinum print. That was a failure - really underexposed (my fault) and it looked really thin - I'm guessing too low a drop count. Re-did it with an 80/20 Platinum/Palladium mix and a higher total volume of solution. Better, got the exposure about right, but the contrast was still off. So I decided to try a double-coated print, as it's supposed to yield better contrast. It definitely worked. I was able to see far more detail in my shadows than I was before, and the blacks are snappier. Now the decision is, is it worth it?

This morning I cleverly over exposed a roll of Portra 400NC by two stops. Should I ask the lab to pull the processing somehow? Normally I shoot b&w which I develop myself but I'm not familiar with what should be done with incorrectly exposed colour film. Any advice -- other than not to do it again -- would be welcome.

Hello, I found a Durst RCP 20 processor and i would like to use it for 8x10 color paper processing... The problem is that this Durst works with a long time of developing and bleaching-fixing... about 2,20 minutes. I'm using the Tetenal Kit 5l that is for 35° developing, 45 seconds for each bath. I'm trying it with drum at 30° for 1,20 minutes, and it seems to work fine! If I try to work at 20° the processing time should be about 2,20 minutes... So, according to you can I use Durst RCP20 with chemicals at 20° and 2,20 minutes for each bath?

Or, do you know if is possible to modify Durst rcp20 time processing (for 45'' or 1,2 minutes processing?)

p.s.
last question: can you suggest me a good color processor machine up to 20x24''? I'm using a 3063 jobo drum, but I would like to process all formats of paper in the same machine.

thank you!

I have a 50 sheet box of 4x5 Portra 160VC that expired in 2002. Unopened. I would like to trade it for B&W 4x5 sheet film....Tmax, Tri-X, Delta 100, Acros, pretty much whatever. Let me know

I have for sale a Nikon D70 kit. It would be a very good camera for someone wanting to move up to a DSLR. IIRC, it's about 6mp - large enough for good prints of at least 13x15 (or whatever that oddball digital size is.)

Includes the camera body, an 18-70mm dx lens, a 70-200mm dx lens, a Really Right Stuff camera bracket (no longer made), cover for the LCD screen, a couple of batteries and battery charger, and whatever memory cards I can find.

I'm selling because I need to pay for the Wehman 8x10 I just bought. Ha.
$400 shipped within the continental US. If somewhere else in the world, send me a PM and I'll check on shipping costs.
juan

Widelux F7 with original soft leather case. Camera is in immaculate condition. Case is excellent.

Negatives are crisp and tightly spaced with no overlapping and no banding. Shutter speeds and lens rotation are accurate and smooth. Even the green bubble level is perfect. The 28mm f/2.8 lens is quite good wide open and deadly sharp @f/8. There is virtually no vignetting, which makes printing or scanning very easy, unlike with the Hasselblad X-Pan, which also doesn't cover as wide an angle.


Once in a while, perhaps one shot out of twenty-five or thirty, the shutter release button will not release the shutter. When that happens, I just recock the swinging lens manually. The Widelux instructions (free online) suggest that the swinging lens should be "exercised" frequently by doing this. When the camera is loaded with film, the swinging lens can be "exercised" without making any exposures or wasting film.

This Widelux was cleaned and checked, not a complete CLA, two years ago. Since then, I have shot less than 6 rolls.

Through the years, I have owned three Widelux cameras and this one is by far the best one.

$950 including shipping in CONUS. $940 plus shipping and insurance outside of CONUS. PayPal (kindly use gift option), or add 3% if the gift option is not selected. Attached Images

• IMG_2238.JPG (826.6 KB)
• IMG_2239.JPG (871.5 KB)
• IMG_2240.jpg (318.7 KB)
• IMG_2244.JPG (1.05 MB)

You are cordially invited to join us the first weekend in October in Puget Sound for the
2010 Northwest Symposium for Alternative Process Photography
Sponsored by: Regional Chapter of the Center for Photographic History and Technology [a 501(c)(3) Not-for-Profit organization]

Saturday, October 2nd Speakers and Demonstrations:
Ray Bidegain - Wet Plate Collodian - Demo
Marcy Merrill - Pinhole Photography
Don Nelson - 12x20 Large Format Camera - Demo
Ron Reeder - Digital Negatives Update
Linda Stemer – Cyanotype on Fabric
Judy Rowe Taylor - Kallitype and Chrysotype
Mark Vercammen - Lith Printing and Encaustic

Optional Field Trips on Sunday, October 3rd:
Bloedel Gardens, Bainbridge Island - Leader: Craig Alan Huber
Kubota Gardens, Seattle – Leader: Joan Bowers
Other Field Trips (to be determined)

There will be an opportunity for symposium attendees to display and discuss their own work on October 2nd during the conference.

Continental breakfast on Saturday and optional field trips on Sunday are included in the symposium fee. Field Trip participants will need to provide transportation (or share gas costs if car-pool) and any entrance and ferry fees.

Dates: October 2-3, 2010. Saturday's program starts at 9:00am and goes until 5:00pm. Check-in and At-the-Door registration (check or cash only) are from 8:15am - 9:00am. Participants are encouraged to bring a brown bag lunch (refridgerator available).

Conference Fee: $50 for early registration, through September 18th. $55 after September 18th or at the door.

Location:
The Saturday October 2nd Presentations and Demos will be held at Spring Hall (Education Building) on the campus of Eastshore Unitarian Church, 12700 Southeast 32nd Street, Bellevue, WA.
Meeting places and directions for the Sunday October 3rd Field Trips will be announced during the day on Saturday.

Contact: Joan Bowers at jebbo102@gmail.com for additional information and to register.