I just picked up the first roll of 120 film I shot in a Crown Graphic with "22" film back and the film bunched up slightly, 1/4 inch overlap in the first 4 shots, any ideas or advice. The film was fuji pro 400H which I advanced until the start line matched the arrow on the holder. Any help would be appreciated. :confused:

OK, I need to begin getting back a printing eye and need some fresh paper. When I get serious, I'll be using my remaining frozen Zone VI (the French-made) Brilliant; contemporaneous Oriental Seagull; and some ORWO-clone Brovira-like. Before going to my good stuff, I need a neutral or cold-tone graded paper, which I will be souping in my modified Ansco One OH Three.
Tell me what to buy, please.

Jake,

It's great to see you as a sponser here at APUG. I've read through the posts related to BlueMoon. It looks like your advert dollars here may pay off. I sure hope so. I love your shop.

John Austin

Well, I'll offer it and if there aren't any takers, that'll be OK!


You can read all about this lens on my web site here.


The name is vulgar, but the pictures are..........vulgar.


7 3/4" focus at an effective f3.2. Very fast! Very weird! Altogether unique!
There is no aperture although cutting a waterhouse slot would only require the skill of a hack saw.


So lighten up and have some fun for once. I'll be sorry if someone buys it. OTOH, it's just been laying in the lens drawer while someone could be having some fun with it. $225 + shipping.

Here's a beautiful lens. The quality of the finish on these is so elegant sometimes I just like to look at the lens and forget about making pictures.


This one must have been made right in the overlap of months when factory coatings had begun but they hadn't gotten the magical "Red Dot" yet.


So this is a Red Dot Artar but it doesn't say so. Just says APO. This is one of my favorite focal length on 8X10. If you love a 210 on 4X5, this will give you the identical frame on 8X10.


This has excellent movements. It would actually cover 11X14 with minimal movements. It is almost perfect with just a couple of cleaning sleaks up front to mention. And, it has it's flange.


$335 + shipping. Trades? Offers? All considered. If you want this lens, talk to me!

hey all,

just finished watching this powerful doc. about photographer James Nachtwey. very powerful!!!! Highly recommended to watch, be aware though, its a 10 part series on u-toob.

on to my main question:
in this videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7u_y...eature=related
the lab guy printing is making a very large print. Seeing that Nachtwey's primary format is Tri-x 400 in 35mm, making a print this large would accentuate grain, maybe too excessively. Hard to tell though due to the low quality of the video though...

so for printing a print this large, would enlarged negatives be made before printing, or would the enlargement be made directly from the 35mm negative itself? I'm just thinking of maintaining the most fine detail in the final print as possible.

I don't print large, even though I shoot 4x5, and starting with 8x10(right now contact printing is the only thing I can do), but it peaked my curiosity enough to warrant starting a discussion on it.

thanks

-Dan

Looking for accessories for a Yashica A TLR. Need a lens cap and filters. This camera, as far as I know, does not use the Bay1 caps and filters. It needs 32 mm push-on caps and filters. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a s**T load of black and white film that I need to have processed with prints. My only option is mail order for the most part. I was thinking of using Dwaynes since the price is not too terrible. Does anyone have anything to say about their service. And also does anyone have any other options in the states that I could look into that offers developing with prints for a decent price.

8 X 10 Burke and James with 2 backs 8x and 5X7 this can be a great wet plate intro camera $300.00 buyer pays shipping
P.S. I am making an extra extension for it !




Contact !

I have both an OM2 and an OM2n.
Both work well.
The OM2 has a little dent on the top cover right corner.
The OM2n is in great shape all around.

Both need new seals.
*note the OM2 is a high serial number so it may not have any foam on the prism.

I was thinking of selling one to fund a full CLA on the other.

From reading online, it almost seems like the OM2 is the one to keep if I want to use it for fill flash and long exposures. Is there any other advantage of the OM2n that I am missing?

Can some one give me rotary drum processing time recommendations for 4 x5 TMax 100 exposed at 50 and TMax 400 (old) exposed at 200.

Am I better off using D 76 or D 76 1 to 1?

Thanks,


John

I am new to using filter, so I would like to get suggestions from others. I am used to having lens hood to prevent flare which especially useful with older lenses. Now that I am venturing out to use filter and try to standardize to the largest lens diameter. That means I need to use step up ring.

My question is, if I am using a smaller lens with step up ring, how can I still use the hood? Do I need to get a universal hood for the filter size?

Thank you in advance.

Just acquired a bargain grade 50mm FLE Hasselblad lens from KEH. The mechanics are quite nice, but I am a bit concerned about a scuff mark in the front element coating that is about 10mm long by 2mm wide arc shape that appears to have happened when a cap was put on crooked. The glass does not look scratched. I am thinking of testing it before returning it, because all else is in very nice shape. My thought is that if this mark causes any effect, it would be at minimum aperture at minimum focus. I plan to run a roll of B&W thru it and enlarge it to see if I can see any detriment. I'm thinking of focusing on a block wall at different distances and apertures/shutter speeds which won't hurt to see if those are consistent or would it be better to point it a cloudless area of sky and just shoot blank frames? Any suggestions?

I am simply wondering if anyone here on APUG has some pix done this way, so I can see examples of this technique.

I am talking about standard agitation at 1:100, not standing development.

Thank you in advance.

Hi all,

I searched a little bit, but I didn't find any clear info about the new AgfaPhoto APX 100 & 400 which are distributed by Lupus Imaging. I bought (cause were quite cheap) and used some of them, but I have no idea what's going on. I sent them an email, but never got an answer regarding the relation of these new films under the name of Agfa with the "original" films before the company closed.





1. Anybody knows where these new APXs are produced and if they have the same emulsion like Agfa's classics or we're talking for a completely different film that has only the same name with its predecessor?

2. Has anybody developed these new undefined films? Any opinions about the quality?

3. I use Kodak HC-110 developer. Anybody experimented with times, for both 400 & 100?

PS: On their web-site they have a technical data sheet, but the information is the same from the original Agfa since 2003.

Thanx,
Fotis

Two Minolta XE-5 bodies. One working (meter in-op) and one parts body. Both are in excellent cosmetic condition. $10 for the pair, plus shipping. Also available is a Minolta MD 50/1.7 for $25. The pics look identical, but the first is the working body and the second is the parts body.
Gerry
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Hi everyone,

So I'm looking for a practical way to determine the effect & degree of shutter efficiency at high speeds and small apertures.

Or, rather than determine it myself, are there any steadfast guidelines that one can go by?

I read the Leslie Stroebel book and she (he?) has an elaborate method to test this using neutral density filters. I don't have any and I'm not gonna go buy any just to test this, nor do I wanna go thru a lot of film to figure it out (I know, I'm lazy and cheap! ;))

I have electronic readouts of my shutter speeds, so that variable can be eliminated, but if anyone has done some tests themselves & would like to share, I'd love to know.

For what it's worth I have a Synchro-Compur in a Schenider 180mm/315 Symmar (convertible type, the golden oldy)

I was wondering if anyone knows someone who services these units and might be able to help.

The unit I sourced for my local lab stopped working suddenly. In the middle of developing a film, the tank lift didn't lower back to the horizontal position, and everything else that was pumped in simply ran right out again.

This is what I've found out so far:

o The program runs it's course correctly, however after the first emptying of the tank, when it's lifted to an inclined position, it never returns to the horizontal position.

o If you open the main cover with the tank up, it will correctly sink back down again.

o A local tech shop had a look at it, and replaced a few components that looked burned out on the printed circuit board, but it still doesn't work.

o From what I can tell, the mechanical program and developing program don't seem to communicate - it seems both simply follow a timer and do what they're supposed to at a given point in time. So the developing program simply continues even though the mechanical program (i.e. lifting/sinking of the tank) stops after the first lift. I don't know if this is how the unit is designed or not.

o Someone mentioned something about a magnetic sensor that might be involved, but again I don't know enough about these units or how they work.

I figured if I'm very lucky, someone here knows a lot about these machines and how they work, and possibly what might be the problem. And with all the people here, at the very least I'm sure someone knows about someone I can get in touch with to continue the troubleshooting and get it repaired.

Best regards,
Thor

I bought a half plate camera from a fair on sunday and was just wondering who made it and what type of lens it has on it? aperture markings go from f8-f64. The seller said that it was turn of the century and thats about it. I am going to try and get it converted to wetplate.

many thanks
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The room I have planned for my darkroom has at the moment electricity and heat. That's good. What's missing is water in and out.
Getting water in would not be a big problem. On the other side of a drywall I have both hot and cold water pipes. Couple of holes, some fittings ... no problem.
But drainage is a bigger problem. No obviuos way to hook up a drain.
So are there any standard solutions for this particular problem? A big tank under the sink? Something else?
Advice pls.

r